Amid the pandemic, businesses are pivoting to meet the shifting demands of the consumer. From virtual presentations to live streaming experiences, beauty brands are quickly switching gears to stay connected to customer. Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, Board Certified Dermatologist, Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery Centers and Clinical Assistant Professor of Dermatology at Weill Cornell Medicine, New York, took time to chat with Happi about the state of expert skin care.
 
Happi: How has COVID-19 impacted the professional skin care industry?
 
MG: With COVID-19, many dermatology offices have transitioned to telemedicine or virtual visits with some practices staying open for urgent skin-related visits to help minimize the burden in emergency rooms and urgent care centers. As a result, many of the encounters dermatologists or aestheticians may have in office settings that allow us to analyze someone's skin and recommend products in general or pre- or post-procedures, have been limited.
 
That said, through virtual visits and the comfort of patients’ homes, it is actually a great time for people to really think about their skin care and consider trying new products.

Happi: What are some of the big trends right now in dermatologist-dispensed skin care and why?
 
MG: Antioxidants continue to be a big trend in dermatologist-dispensed skin care as we know the impact of free radical damage on the skin can include signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles and brown spots as well as textural changes. We are also understanding more about the impact of other external factors, such as pollution and blue light on the skin, and the use of antioxidants can help protect against the free radical damage that these can have on the skin. Specifically, as it pertains to pollution, many skin care brands are looking to incorporate ingredients to help protect the skin against damage from pollutants as it has been shown that pollution can impact skin quality by impairing the skin barrier, increasing dark spots or lentigines and increased wrinkling. One study showed that an increase in soot and particles from traffic was associated with 20% more pigment spots on the cheeks and forehead. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20664556/
 
With antioxidants continuing to be important in anti-aging, skin care companies are looking beyond vitamin C for antioxidant properties. Melatonin, typically known for its role in sleep, has also been incorporated into skin care for its antioxidant effects as it is thought to help boost the role of other antioxidants in the skin as well as helps to repair DNA damage. 
 
Importantly, blue light or high energy visible light which is emitted from our screens, is also important as it has been linked to potentially worsening hyperpigmentation. For this reason, especially with increased time spent at home in front of a computer screen, it is important to continue to wear sunscreen daily and consider sunscreens that also provide protection against blue light, for example, iron oxide-containing sunscreens. 
 
Chemical exfoliants such as glycolic acid have also reemerged in popularity as everyone is looking to achieve a natural glow. When incorporating a chemical exfoliant into your routine a few times per week, you help to shed dead skin cells to help improve skin tone, texture and leave the skin more radiant. Chemical exfoliants are often preferred over physical exfoliants, as harsh physical exfoliants can risk causing injury to the natural skin barrier. 
 
Additionally, as we continue to understand more about the role of the microbiome and the skin, skin care brands remain sensitive to this and trying to maintain the microbiome and not disrupt it as we know shifts in the skin microbiome can lead to skin changes such as dryness or breakouts. 
 
Happi:  How are shoppers getting their professional skin care products and how has it adapted to current events?
 
MG: Fortunately, many companies have adapted to online sales where you can order directly through your doctor's website, the company's website or authorized dealers of the professional skin care lines. It is very important, like with anything that you purchase online, that you know you are ordering from an authorized seller of the product and many companies will list this on their site. Reports have come out about people purchasing certain skin care products on Amazon and the products end up being fake or counterfeit, despite similar packaging. 
 
Happi: Do you recommend any future trends to look out for in the skin care sector later in 2020 and beyond?
 
MG: There will be an increasing demand for skin care for non-facial areas. Many years of skin care products have been dedicated to keeping the face looking good, but as people are spending more time looking down at their phones, we are seeing more people concerned by their neck area, even among younger patients. Similarly, people always say you can tell someone's age by the look of their hands, but as people become aware of that, they are paying more attention on how to protect the skin on their hands as well, whether through regular sunscreen use or moisturizers. Additionally, with technology helping in the area of body contouring, further slom care research will complement these treatments. 
 
A continued trend is the concept of preventative skin care or prejuvenation and recognizing the importance of incorporating certain essential skincare products such as a moisturizer, sunscreen, retinol and antioxidant to help prevent the fine lines and wrinkles from forming, rather than waiting to start a skin regimen once you're already noticing changes or lines. Similarly, more and more men are interested in preserving a youthful appearance and beginning a skincare routine early, so another area to watch are brands and skincare products that will continue to be developed with both men and women in mind, while some may look toward specific marketing just towards men. 
 
The concept of clean beauty and natural skin care will continue to trend throughout the year. Although there is no clear definition of clean beauty, most importantly, it highlights the need to understand the various ingredients in your skincare regimen and work with a board-certified dermatologist to understand what is best for your skin.